Kerleo is a lover of chypres, showcased by the fact that nearly all of his perfumes are chypres, and more specifically a lover of both Mysore sandalwood and oakmoss, with his compositions having what modern IFRA regulations would consider a frighteningly large quantity of the latter, which is why any attempt to reformulate his creations for relaunch ends in rejection by fans of the originals. This seemingly ended towards the final years of his tenure, when he was forced to make "modern" fragrances for then-owner Shaneel Enterprises, resulting in less-loved creations like Voyageur (1994) and Sublime (1992), but even those were more or less obstinantly made on his terms. The amazing thing about the majority of old Patou fragrances during the years Jean Kerleo was house perfumer, is that he basically ran the operation like a modern day indie/artisanal perfumer would, by pretty much doing whatever the Hell he wanted with the brief he was given, tantamount to really just having carte blanche with the fragrances that got released.
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